The battery is completely healthy, neither of my chargers had anything wrong either. Macbook Air no battery status A few months ago my Macbook Air wouldn't charge when plugged in. PS: got batteries/magsafe? OWC: OWC lists replacements for this modelĪlso has Apple authentic MagSafe1 power adapters at reasonable cost. And then exit Safe mode is all that's required. to see if you should've done other steps(?) You should see ”Safe Boot” in the upper-right corner of the window.Ĥ.Read through article content. On either the first or second login window, Release the key when you see the login window, then log in to your Mac.Turn on or restart your Mac, then immediately press and hold the Shift key as your Mac starts up.Instructions for 'Intel-based' Mac models: How to use Safe mode on your Mac - Apple Support.Often 'log-in' required as part of start-up into Safe mode. Safe mode on start up is more straight forward of these. Were added to the instructions those were simpler before.] [Details got more complex as time passed, and new things (2006)ģ.Press and hold the power button for Five seconds.Ħ.Turn on the Mac by pressing the power button.Īpple Support's SMC reset article was revised & clouded. Resetting SMC ( System Management Controller) on a Mac - with removable batteries | Īpple laptops with removable batteries include the 13-inch, mid-2009 MacBook,Īll MacBooks, and MacBook Pros introduced in early 2009 and before.With Removal Batteries: "Lifewire's" article, to the point: There's the reset for SMC 'system management controller' Reset NVRAM or PRAM on your Mac - Apple Support.You can release the keys after about 20 seconds, during which your Mac might appear to restart." (Should chime two times.) "Shut down your Mac, then turn it on and immediately press and hold these four keys together: Option, Command, P, and R. I cannot find a pinout for this battery I can work with, so I’m hoping someone here has one I can use to at least jump it and see if it’s the battery or motherboard.Suppose we'd try and see if some resets are in order? This protects the user, but requires these to be jumped to use them once it happens. I’m suspecting charge rejection because modern BMS boards (even copy onses) have onboard lockouts that create this problem. I’m going to keep the notebook if it works (even though I’ve moved onto something newer, since I don’t want to waste this one) but if it doesn’t I’ll relegate it to a throwaway loaner with the caution it can’t charge batteries until it gets worse. I’m going to keep what I put in minimal for safety reasons unless I somehow need more (3.7V max to start). Since I do not know if the notebook even works (or if the motherboard is bad), I would rather not buy a battery and see if my existing unit is jumpable to get it to a state it’s going to even work at all. I also see it does hold a few mV of charge with a multimeter.
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The battery gets mV of charge if I constantly mess with the adapter, so it’s trying but either the computer is forcing it to stop when it does it’s sanity check or the motherboard has issues keeping it going.I need to cut power off before it even attempts to register it. There are times the battery doesn’t show up when I tried to make it try by running without and replacing it.Charge light comes on briefly but goes to green within seconds.Since the notebook can’t charge the battery and it shows every possible sign of probable motherboard damage, I’m seeing how I can jump the battery the notebook came with to try and see if the signs are board related. I know this may not work so I’m setting my expectations low (expect it to not work, but hope it does). Since I have largely given up on my A1181 (Late 2006) since the charge issue looks to be extensive and it needs other parts replaced, I don’t want to spend money if I can avoid it.